علوم و فناوری نساجی و پوشاک

علوم و فناوری نساجی و پوشاک

بهینه سازی فرآیند رنگرزی پشم با رنگزای ریشۀ کنار توسط رویه ‏پاسخ

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسنده
گروه طراحی و چاپ پارچه، دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه سمنان، سمنان، ایران
چکیده
صنعت نساجی از جمله اصلی ترین آلاینده های محیط زیست محسوب شده و این موضوع سبب ترغیب محققان به ارائه راه کارهای زیست سازگار و جایگزینی ‏مواد شیمیایی خطرناک با محصولات طبیعی شده است‎.‎‏ در این راستا در پژوهش حاضر برای اولین بار از فرآورده‎ ‎های جانبی گیاهی ریشۀ کنار و گال بلوط ‏برای رنگرزی پایدار نخ های پشمی استفاده شد‎.‎‏ ترکیبات زیست فعال موجود در کنار و گال به روش اولتراسونیک استخراج شد و به ترتیب به عنوان رنگزا و ‏بیودندانه برای فرآیند رنگرزی مورد استفاده قرار گرفت. به منظور بررسی اثر هر یک از متغیرها و بهینه سازی فرآیند از روش آماری رویه پاسخ و طرح مرکب ‏مرکزی استفاده شد. نتایج نشان داد که مواد انتخاب شده حاوی بیوترکیبات فنولی و تاننی بوده و از قابلیت مناسبی برای استفاده در رنگرزی سازگار با ‏محیط زیست منسوجات برخوردار می باشند. نتایج آنالیز واریانس روی مدل درجه دوم نشان داد که به ترتیب پارامترهای غلظت رنگزا، غلظت بیودندانه و ‏pH‏ ‏حمام رنگرزی معنی‌دار بوده و متغیر پاسخ قدرت رنگی را تحت تأثیر قرار می دهند. پایداری پیوند میان رنگزا و نخ های پشمی از نظر ثبات رنگ در برابر ‏شستشو و نور مورد ارزیابی قرار گرفت. به این ترتیب ریشۀ کنار و سیچکا می‌توانند جایگزین مناسبی برای رنگزاها و دندانه‌های سمی باشند به ویژه اینکه ‏راندمان رنگرزی نخ‌های پشمی را بدون اثرات نامطلوب زیست‌محیطی بهبود می‌بخشند و محصولات زیست تخریب‌پذیر با ارزش افزوده بالا تولید می‌کنند‎.‎
کلیدواژه‌ها

موضوعات


عنوان مقاله English

Optimization of Wool Dyeing Process with Z. Spina-Christ ‎Root Dye by RSM ‎

نویسنده English

Somayeh Baseri
ّFaculty of textile design and printing, Department of art, Semnan university, Semnan, Iran
چکیده English

The textile industry is‏ ‏one of the major environmental polluters. It has been increased the researcher interest to explore eco-‎friendly ways and replace hazardous‏ ‏chemical materials with natural products. In the present work, for the first time, Z. Spina-‎christ root and Sichka gall plant by-products were employed for sustainable dyeing of wool yarns. Sichka is an asexual gall that ‎results from the sting of the wasp Andricus curtisii‏‎ ‎(Cynips mediterranea Trott)‎‏ ‏‎ on the buds of the oak (Quercus infectoria). ‎Bio-compounds of Z. Spina-christ and gall were extracted by ultrasonic method and the extracts were used as a natural dye and ‎bio-mordant for the dyeing process, respectively. Response surface method and central composite design were used to evaluate ‎the effect of the main process parameters and dyeing optimization. Results showed that the selected materials contain phenolic ‎and tannin bio-constitute and have a sufficient ability to use in the eco-dyeing process of textiles. The analysis of the variance of ‎the quadratic model showed that the dye concentration, bio-mordant concentration, and pH were significant model terms and had ‎the highest effects on the dyeing performance, respectively. Results indicate that for the conditions used in our experiments, the ‎optimum dyeing conditions are dye conc. =96%, bio-mordant conc. =12%, and pH=7.5. Dye fiber bonding stability of the dyed ‎samples was‏ ‏evaluated in terms of colorfastness to wash and light. Using Sichka as a bio- mordant in the dyeing process with Z. ‎Spina-christ root extract can improve the color strength of wool yarns and obtain acceptable dye fastness properties. As a result, ‎Z. Spina-christ root and Sichka bio-wastes, may, thus, be considered good replacements for the toxic dyes and mordants, ‎especially because they improve the natural dyeing efficiency of wool yarns without adverse environmental effects and produce ‎biodegradable byproducts with value-added properties.‎

کلیدواژه‌ها English

Sustainable Dyeng
Ultrasonic Extraction
Bio-mordant
Tannins
Response Surface Methodology
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  • تاریخ دریافت 25 بهمن 1403
  • تاریخ بازنگری 10 اردیبهشت 1404
  • تاریخ پذیرش 11 تیر 1404