علوم و فناوری نساجی و پوشاک

علوم و فناوری نساجی و پوشاک

مطالعه‌ فن شناسی یک نمونه پارچه مخمل گلابتون‌دوزی شده دوره قاجار

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسندگان
1 دانشگاه هنر شیراز. گروه مرمت بناهای تاریخی
2 گروه مرمت آثار تاریخی و فرهنگی، دانشکده حفاظت و مرمت، دانشگاه هنر
چکیده
از جمله پارچه‌های نفیسی که از دوران قدیم باقی مانده است، می‌توان به ابریشم، مخمل و پارچه‌های گلابتون‌دوزی شده، اشاره کرد. اثر مورد مطالعه در این پژوهش، یک قطعه پارچه مخمل با تزیینات گلابتون دوزی شده متعلق به موزه کاخ صاحبقرانیه است و در انبار این موزه نگهداری می‌شود. با توجه به مستندات مربوط به این اثر در موزه، تاریخ تولید آن به دوره قاجار برمی‌گردد. بر این اساس هدف اصلی از انجام این پروژهش، مطالعه‌ی فن‌شناسی اثر مورد نظر، در جهت تعریف مواد و متریال مورد استفاده هنرمند می‌باشد. شیوه‌های جمع‌آوری اطلاعات در انجام این تحقیق از نوع کتابخانه‌ای، میدانی و آزمایشگاهی بوده است. برای شناسایی رنگدانه‌ها و مواد مورد استفاده در نمونه‌ی مطالعاتی از روش‌های شناسایی به وسیله دستگاه طیف سنجی پراش انرژی پرتو ایکس( SEM-EDS )، طیف سنجی مادون قرمز تبدیل فوریه(FTIR )و میکروسکوپ پلاریزان( PLM) استفاده شده است. نتایج آزمایش FTIR انجام شده بر روی الیاف نمونه‌ی مورد مطالعه و همچنین مشاهده‌ی این الیاف زیر میکروسکوپ PLM نشان می‌دهد که الیاف تار و پود لایه‌ی مخمل اصلی از جنس ابریشم، الیاف بکار رفته در پارچه حاشیه از جنس ابریشم و الیاف بکار رفته در ابریشم‌دوزی و گلابتون دوزی نیز از جنس ابریشم هستند و الیاف پارچه‌ی آستری نمونه‌ی مورد نظر از جنس پنبه می‌باشد. همچنین در آزمایش FTIR، نوع رنگ پارچه‌ی مخمل، رنگ آلیزارین تشخیص داده شد. در آزمایش نخ نقده به وسیله‌ی دستگاه SEM-EDS مشخص شد که نخ نقده‌ی نمونه‌ی مورد مطالعه از ترکیب سه فلز نقره، طلا و مس ساخته شده‌است.
کلیدواژه‌ها

موضوعات


عنوان مقاله English

Study of the technology of a sample of Golabtun-embroidered velvet fabric of the Qajar period

نویسندگان English

Zahra Abbasi 1
Azadeh Parvesh Baladi 2
1 Shiraz University of Arts. Department of Conservation and Restoration of Historical Sites
2 Department of Restoration of Historical and Cultural Monuments, Faculty of Conservation and Restoration, University of Arts
چکیده English

Among the exquisite fabrics that have survived from ancient times, silk, velvet, and embroidered fabrics, such as Golabatun-embroidered, are notable examples. The artifact studied in this research is a piece of velvet fabric adorned with Golabatun-embroidered, -embroidered, housed in the Sahebqaranieh Palace Museum's storage. According to museum records, its production dates back to the Qajar period. The primary objective of this project is to conduct a technical study of the artifact to define the materials and techniques used by the artist. Information gathering methods employed in this research include library research, fieldwork, and laboratory analysis. To identify pigments and materials used in the sample study, identification methods such as Energy-Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), and Polarized Light Microscopy (PLM) were utilized. FTIR analysis on the fibers of the studied sample and observation of these fibers under PLM microscopy indicate that the warp and weft fibers of the main velvet layer are silk, while the supplementary weft fibers are also silk used in the embroidery and Golabatun-embroidered. Additionally, the lining fabric fibers of the sample are cotton. FTIR analysis also identified the dye type of the velvet fabric as alizarin. SEM-EDS analysis of the thread revealed it is composed of a combination of silver, gold, and copper.

کلیدواژه‌ها English

Velvet
Fabric؛ Golabatun-embroidered؛ Qajar Period؛ Technical Analysis
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  • تاریخ دریافت 12 اسفند 1402
  • تاریخ بازنگری 29 تیر 1403
  • تاریخ پذیرش 30 تیر 1403