علوم و فناوری نساجی و پوشاک

علوم و فناوری نساجی و پوشاک

ارزیابی فرآیند رنگرزی و ثبات رنگی الیاف پشمی رنگرزی شده با گیاه گل گندم طلایی

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسندگان
دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه بیرجند، بیرجند، ایران
چکیده
استفاده از رنگزاهای طبیعی به‌عنوان روشی پایدار و دوستدار محیط‌زیست در صنعت نساجی به‌طور چشمگیری رشد یافته است. گل گندم طلایی با نام علمیCentaurea behen L. در ایران به ‌عنوان یک گیاه خودرو و بومی شناخته می‌شود. در این پژوهش، قابلیت استفاده از این گیاه برای رنگرزی طبیعی الیاف پشم مورد بررسی قرار گرفت و تأثیر شرایط مختلف رنگرزی بر ویژگی‌ها و ثبات رنگی آن ارزیابی شد. پس از انجام تحلیل‌های آماری، فرآیند رنگرزی بهینه‌سازی گردید. نتایج تحلیل واریانس تأثیر معناداری از متغیرهای مختلف رنگرزی شامل غلظت رنگزا، غلظت دندانه، دما، مدت زمان ، و pH را بر قدرت رنگی را نشان داد. بر این اساس، با استقاده از روش آماری سطح پاسخ، شرایط بهینه رنگرزی شامل دمای 90 درجه سانتیگراد، مدت زمان 90 دقیقه، غلظت رنگزا 150 درصد، غلظت دندانه 5 درصد، و pH حمام 8 تعیین شد. این شرایط بهبود چشم‌گیری در خلوص، و قدرت رنگ داشته و نتیجه نهایی آن، یک فام رنگی زرد بود. با استفاده از بخش های مختلف گیاه، و همچنین در حضور دندانه های فلزی مختلف، امکان کسب شیدهای رنگی متنوع فراهم شد. در ارزیابی ثبات رنگی، نمونه‌های رنگرزی شده با بخش برگ گیاه ثبات نوری و شستشویی بیشتری را نشان دادند. مطالعه ویژگی‌های مکانیکی نیز نشان داد که فرآیند رنگرزی تأثیر چندانی بر عملکرد مکانیکی نخ‌ها نداشته است.
کلیدواژه‌ها

موضوعات


عنوان مقاله English

Evaluation of dyeing process and colorfastness of wool fibers dyed with Centaurea behen L.

نویسندگان English

Aliyeh Mahnia
Homa Maleki
Hossein Barani
Samaneh Khaleghi
Facultty of Art,, University of Birjand, Birjand, Iran
چکیده English

The use of natural dyes as a sustainable and environmentally friendly approach in the textile industry has significantly grown. In this study, the potential use of different parts of Centaurea behen L. as a natural dye for wool fiber dyeing was investigated, and the effect of various dyeing conditions on its color properties, lightfastness, and wash fastness was evaluated. Finally, after conducting statistical analyses, the wool dyeing process using the natural dye extracted from this plant was optimized. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) results demonstrated a significant effect of various dyeing variables, including dye concentration, mordant concentration, temperature, dyeing duration, and pH of the dye bath, on color strength. Consequently, using response surface methodology (RSM), optimal dyeing conditions were determined to be a temperature of 90°C, a dyeing duration of 90 minutes, a dye concentration of 150%, a mordant concentration of 5% (based on fiber weight), and a pH of 8 for the dye bath. These optimized conditions resulted in remarkable improvements in choroma, hue angle, and color strength, with the final outcome being a yellow color shade. By utilizing different parts of the plant, and in the presence of various metallic mordants, diverse color shades were achieved. In terms of color fastness evaluation, samples dyed with the leaf part of the plant exhibited higher lightfastness and wash fastness. Mechanical property analysis of the dyed yarns indicated that the dyeing process had little effect on the mechanical performance of the fibers.

کلیدواژه‌ها English

Natural dyes
Centaurea behen L
Wool
optimization
Fastness
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  • تاریخ دریافت 02 فروردین 1403
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