EFFECT OF SEAM TYPE AND PARAMETERS ON FABRIC BENDING LENGTH

Document Type : Research/ Original/ Regular Article

Authors

1 Department of Design and Sewing, Faculty of Fadak, Kashan Branch, Technical and Vocational University (TVU), Tehran, Iran

2 Department of Textile Engineering, Amirkabir University of Technology, Tehran, Iran

Abstract

The bending and drape behavior during garment wear affects its appearance. Although fabric bending and drape characteristics have a considerable role in final garment properties, other parameters such as sewing yarn, and type of seaming can also affect its mechanical behavior. In this study, the effects of (a) seam type: superimpose or lapped,  (b) the angle of seam with the fabric bending axis, (c) seam allowance, and (d) seam position to the fabric free end on the bending properties of fabrics were studied. The results showed that the fabrics with superimpose seam had higher bending length (i.e., higher bending rigidity) than the fabrics with a lapped seam.  Moreover, the fabric with vertical seams showed more bending length than those with horizontal seams. The effects of the seam allowance and seam position on the fabric bending properties were also studied and discussed.

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پوپوف، ایگور؛ مقاومت مصالح، لعل خو، ح.، چاپ سوم، تهران: انتشارات اسکار، صفحات 166-168، 1375