Journal of Textile Science and Technology

Journal of Textile Science and Technology

Evaluation of dyeing process and colorfastness of wool fibers dyed with Centaurea behen L.

Document Type : Research/ Original/ Regular Article

Authors
Facultty of Art,, University of Birjand, Birjand, Iran
Abstract
The use of natural dyes as a sustainable and environmentally friendly approach in the textile industry has significantly grown. In this study, the potential use of different parts of Centaurea behen L. as a natural dye for wool fiber dyeing was investigated, and the effect of various dyeing conditions on its color properties, lightfastness, and wash fastness was evaluated. Finally, after conducting statistical analyses, the wool dyeing process using the natural dye extracted from this plant was optimized. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) results demonstrated a significant effect of various dyeing variables, including dye concentration, mordant concentration, temperature, dyeing duration, and pH of the dye bath, on color strength. Consequently, using response surface methodology (RSM), optimal dyeing conditions were determined to be a temperature of 90°C, a dyeing duration of 90 minutes, a dye concentration of 150%, a mordant concentration of 5% (based on fiber weight), and a pH of 8 for the dye bath. These optimized conditions resulted in remarkable improvements in choroma, hue angle, and color strength, with the final outcome being a yellow color shade. By utilizing different parts of the plant, and in the presence of various metallic mordants, diverse color shades were achieved. In terms of color fastness evaluation, samples dyed with the leaf part of the plant exhibited higher lightfastness and wash fastness. Mechanical property analysis of the dyed yarns indicated that the dyeing process had little effect on the mechanical performance of the fibers.
Keywords

Subjects


[1] S. Rafiei, Comparison of colorimetric parameters and antibacterial effect of two dyes, henna and jaft, on silk, Journal of Textile Science and Technology. 13 (2024). 21863–21871.
[2]          M. Tehrani, T. Navayee, Investigating the effect of acid and metal mordant types on the colorimetric and fastness properties of woolen yarn dyed with cinnamon bark as a natural dye, Journal of Textile Science and Technology. 13 (2024).
[3]          L.K. Mirki, H. Barani, S. Khaleghi, Enhancing sustainability and hygiene in dyeing of wool yarn with Daphne mucronata, Sustain. Chem. Pharm. 37 (2024) 101382. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scp.2023.101382.
[4]          A. Haji, N. Arefi, Application of response surface methodology in optimization of dyeing of wool with citrus aurantium leaves as natural dye, Journal of Textile Science and Technology. 8 (2019) 5–13.
[5]          S. Adeel, N. Amin, Fazal-ur-Rehman, T. Ahmad, F. Batool, A. Hassan, Sustainable Isolation of Natural Dyes from Plant Wastes for Textiles, in: Recycl. from Waste Fash. Text., 2020: pp. 363–390. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1002/9781119620532.ch17.
[6]          A. Ghorbani, S. Esmaeili, R.W. Bussmann, K. Batsatsashvili, Z. Kikvidze, N.Y. Paniagua-Zambrana, Centaurea behen L. Asteraceae, in: 2020. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-28940-9_37.
[7]          A. Shakeri, E. Amini, J. Asili, M. Masullo, S. Piacente, M. Iranshahi, Screening of several biological activities induced by different sesquiterpene lactones isolated from Centaurea behen L. and Rhaponticum repens (L.) Hidalgo, Nat. Prod. Res. 32 (2018) 1436–1440. https://doi.org/10.1080/14786419.2017.1344661.
[8]          S. Akbar, Centaurea behen L. (Asteraceae/Compositae) BT  - Handbook of 200 Medicinal Plants: A Comprehensive Review of Their Traditional Medical Uses and Scientific Justifications, in: S. Akbar (Ed.), Springer International Publishing, Cham, 2020: pp. 569–571. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-16807-0_60.
[9]          A. Esmaeili, Z. Mousavi, M. Shokrollahi, A. Shafaghat, Antioxidant activity and isolation of luteoline from Centaurea behen L. grown in Iran, J. Chem. 2013 (2013).
[10]        M. NADAF, Floristic study and introduce medicinal plants of Babaaman region, North Khorasan, J. Plant Res.  (Iranian J. Biol. 34 (2021) 205–219. https://plant.ijbio.ir/article_1656.html.
[11]        S. Yousefi, H. Ahangar, M. Bahrami, M. Kamalinejad, A. Yaghoubi, H. Azizi, Effectiveness of" Centaurea behen" root on quality of life in patients with systolic heart failure: A randomized clinical trial, J. Cardiovasc. Thorac. Res. 15 (2023).
[12]        F.Ç. Çelikezen, Ş. Hayta, Ö. Özdemir, H. Türkez, Cytotoxic and antioxidant properties of essential oil of Centaurea behen L. in vitro, Cytotechnology. 71 (2019) 345–350.
[13]        M. Abdoli, E. Arkan, Z. Shekarbeygi, S. Khaledian, Green synthesis of gold nanoparticles using Centaurea behen leaf aqueous extract and investigating their antioxidant and cytotoxic effects on acute leukemia cancer cell line (THP-1), Inorg. Chem. Commun. 129 (2021) 108649.
[14]        M. Entezari, S. Sheikhan, Evaluation of Bcl2 gene expression in MCF-7 Human Breast Cancer Cells under treatment of Centaurea Behen extract and Cisplatin, Arch. Adv. Biosci. 9 (2018) 11–16.
[15]        M. Bastouh Filabadi, M. Yousofi, S.A. Mirjalili, Floristic investigation in Chubin Mountaion, Chaharmahal and Bakhtyari Province, J. Plant Res.  (Iranian J. Biol. 33 (2020) 266–284. https://plant.ijbio.ir/article_1530.html.
[16]        W. Feng, Z. Hao, M. Li, Isolation and Structure Identification of Flavonoids, in: Flavonoids - From Biosynth. to Hum. Heal., 2017. https://doi.org/10.5772/67810.
[17]        A.-A. Naghipour Borj, M. Nowroozi, H. Bashari, Investigation of the flora, life forms and chorotypes of the plants in the Meymand Protected Area, Kohkilouyeh va Boyer Ahmad provice, Iran, Taxon. Biosyst. 6 (2014) 67–84. https://tbj.ui.ac.ir/article_17517.html.
[18]        F. Nejadhabibvash, H. Makali, I. Rezaei Chiyaneh, Flora, life form and chorology of plants in Razhan protected area in West Azerbaijan Province, Taxon. Biosyst. 8 (2016) 85–95. https://doi.org/10.22108/tbj.2016.20982.
[19]        M.A. Tabad, V. Abaszadeh, H. Maroofi, N. Jalilian, Floristic study of Lailakh region in Dehgolan, Kurdistan Province, J. Plant Res.  (Iranian J. Biol. 34 (2021) 297–315. https://plant.ijbio.ir/article_1707.html.
[20]        M. Heidari Rikan, A. Alijanpour, Investigation on flora, life form and chorology of silver birch site in marmisho region- west Azarbaijan, J. Plant Res.  (Iranian J. Biol. 32 (2019) 692–708. https://plant.ijbio.ir/article_1369.html.
[21]        K. SafiKhani, A Floristic Study of the Almabolaq Asadabad Protected Area in Hamadan Province, Taxon. Biosyst. 15 (2023) 41–82. https://doi.org/10.22108/tbj.2023.137553.1231.
[22]        M.A. Tabad, N. Jalilian, H. Maroofi, Study of flora, life form and chorology of plant Species in Zarivar Region of Marivan, Kurdistan, Taxon. Biosyst. 8 (2016) 69–102. https://doi.org/10.22108/tbj.2016.21538.
[23]        L. Labarrière, A. Moncomble, J.-P. Cornard, pH dependency of the structural and photophysical properties of the atypical 2′,3-dihydroxyflavone, RSC Adv. 10 (2020) 35017–35030. https://doi.org/10.1039/D0RA06833K.
[24]        H. Maleki, H. Barani, Extraction and antibacterial activity of Pulicaria gnaphalodes as a natural colorant: Characterization and application on wool fibers, Prog. Color. Color. Coatings. 12 (2019).
[25]        H. Barani, S. Rahimpour, The dyeing procedures evaluation of wool fibers with prangos ferulacea and fastness characteristics, Adv. Mater. Sci. Eng. 2014 (2014).
[26]        N. Buchner, A. Krumbein, S. Rohn, L.W. Kroh, Effect of thermal processing on the flavonols rutin and quercetin, Rapid Commun. Mass Spectrom. 20 (2006) 3229–3235. https://doi.org/10.1002/rcm.2720.
[27]        A. Kataria, S. Sharma, B.N. Dar, Changes in phenolic compounds, antioxidant potential and antinutritional factors of Teff ( Eragrostis tef ) during different thermal processing methods, Int. J. Food Sci. Technol. 57 (2022) 6893–6902. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijfs.15210.
[28]        K. Huber, Phenolic Acid, Flavonoids and Antioxidant Activity of Common Brown Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) Before and After Cooking, J. Nutr. Food Sci. (2016). https://doi.org/10.4172/2155-9600.1000551.
 

  • Receive Date 21 March 2024
  • Revise Date 05 June 2024
  • Accept Date 08 June 2024